Burry Port has not one but THREE harbours (all linked) which must be something of a rarity for a town so small. Growing up in the 70s and 80s I thought of them as my personal swimming pools during summer months and gigantic bowls of grey broth in the winter. Early morning walks 'down the harbour' are best because the mist rising from the waters surface give it a otherworldy look and the smell of cockles in their gooey beds really is something not to be sniffed at. (Terrible pun there, I apologise.)
The harbours are like a triangle, two are side by side while another 'sits' at the front spilling into the open sea. Or it used to until the marina and harbour gate arrived. Just beyond the front main dock stands Burry Port's most famous sight, the lighthouse. Around 40ft high, its walls are sheer white with a bright red top that houses the powerful bulb and it stands right on the end like a stone guardian keeping the sailors and indeed the village safe.
There is real character to it all and it was my playground in younger days. The black crane (used to haul cargo before I was born) and bridge were used a diving platforms and teenagers crowded them on a summers day, eager to 'bomb' into the cooling water. Of course that was in 1986, now the nanny brigade have erected spiteful 'No Swimming' signs but I have covered my thoughts on that in another article.
The harbour is really the heart of Burry along with the main street lined with shops. The two are forever connected by the image of sand on the streets pavement carried over from beach goers, that has remained seared inside my memory bank since forever. Almost everyone used to go to Perego's cafe (with its orange wall and ice cream cone picture) to get a Tovali soda drink or a banana split before strolling down to the harbour walls and take in the spectacular views of the Gower.
Me near the iconic lighthouse
It can easily rival Tenby in the summer, and is more peaceful too because everyone is in Tenby! I used to LOVE waking up at 7am in the summer holidays and rushing to jump off the old black bridge which spanned the water. Fish (mullet usually) would be feeding near the seaweed on the edge and before taking the plunge I would sit and try to devise ways of catching them. In my youth, like any animal loving child, I wanted everything for a pet.
It appeared to me then that time stood still as I changed into 'Bermuda' shorts in readiness for the early dip. The morning mist seemed to freeze everything and back then I could have betted my soul I would remain in that carefree moment forever. Sadly is has all changed now and like I say local authorities forbid any swimming in those harbours. (And they wonder why children today stay indoors!)
Sign of the times
It really had to be experinced and children today in
Burry Port really are missing out on something special. There were different places (all within easy reach as you waddled in wet shorts) and each one offered its own thing. The harbours themselves were mainly used for diving (with some occasional bathers choosing to swim from one end to the other) while the beach was for the sunbathers and paddlers. Over by the lifeboat shed was what was known locally as
the slags and this was the place to try to surf and fish. There was plenty on offer for everyone.
Whenever im feeling down I close my eyes and take myself back to
Burry Port harbour (or the
Furnace fields) to how it used to be back then and instantly I am relieved of any burden that is weighing heavy on my shoulders. It never fails.
I am in two minds regarding all of the work that has been done there in these last few years, what with the new marina and coastal path. I must admit that certain things needed doing and the new cycle path has brought lots of new visitors but I dont like the marina. To me (and I realise others will disagree) its an ugly wooden spiderweb and the harbour was much better looking without it. But as I say, thats my opinion.
West harbour
The harbour has changed a lot these last few years with the arrival of the Millenium Coastal Park but here are a few snaps of how it looked when swimming was allowed (as well as crane jumping). You can see the Carmarthe Bay Powers Station in the photo below. In fact not far from where that was taken was another hang out spot, used to love popping a few cold ones down here in the summer. (Mind you it didn't need to be summer). The water is always in now because of the new locks but before those arrived, the harbour stank of mud, stale fish and seaweed when the tide was out. Not necessarily a bad smell, just very different compared to when it was in.
